Chanel Rare Collector’s 1985 Classic Lambskin Double Flap, Bijoux Chain

NOTE: This description is one of my longest ones because it is describing a near “unicorn” of a bag for Chanel historians as well as those who appreciate and love vintage Chanel bags.

This very, very rare Chanel bag is a special early vintage Classic Double Flap with bijoux chain. It represents a rare piece of Chanel handbag development history for those who love or collect Chanel bags. As with all vintage Chanel bags made by the end of 2008, all hardware on this bag is plated with 24k gold. I estimate this bag was made before Chanel’s 1986-88 institution of authenticity stickers and cards (ie, before, even, the 0 series), so it has neither sticker nor card. It reflects many of the design elements that Karl Lagerfeld instituted when he arrived at Chanel around 1984, including the use of the entwined Cs as part of the turn lock. The bijoux chain used as a handle/strap mimics the earliest bags created for CoCo Chanel in the 1920s. I believe this bag must have been made in 1985. It is crafted from supple black lambskin with the brand's signature diamond quilting. As with all hardware on this vintage bag, the CC turn-lock and the versatile bijoux chain strap that enables shoulder or crossbody carry are plated with 24k gold.

The bag’s interior is accessed through the double flaps. The first (outside flap) opens with the CC turn lock). Under that flap is full width slip pocket in the back. The second flap opens with a snap. Immediately inside is a full-width slip pocket and access to the burgundy leather interior. There are three slip pockets inside—one sized for lipstick. 

Both exterior and interior are in excellent preowned condition.

This very rare, pre-zero series Chanel Classic is in excellent preowned condition and comes with a Chanel dust bag and a box. As a result of its rarity, we obtained a third party authenticity certificate. This is a difficult bag to source. The only other bag I’ve seen of this 1985 (pre 0 series) vintage is in my collection.   

Approximate Dimensions:

• Length: 10.5 inches (approx. 26.5 cm)

• Height: 7 inches (approx. 18 cm)

• Width: 3 inches (approx. 8 cm)

• Strap Drop: Approximately 9 inches (double chain) to 16.5 inches (single chain)